The Dacca weaves of East Bengal –
famous for the figured, finely woven mulmul. The Daccai saree, consists of different coloured threads intricately woven, (with several needles used) on white unbleached cotton. The thread was a slightly greater count than the base fabric. The style is now practised in West Bengal by the craftsmen who had migrated here after the partition. The technique also developed in Uttar Pradesh, the style of textile known as Jamdani.
The Jamdani weaves of Uttar Pradesh
This style was introduced by the Nawabs of Oudh in the late 18th century. The textile was very fine and delicate, the process very complicated & intricate & hence the textile was very expensive. The style is however still practised. In the style where white thread is used to weave on white, i.e., self designs, the designs woven are hardly visible, except on closer scrutiny. The thread used to weave the patterns are of the same count as the base material. Gold and silver thread are also used to weave the patterns.
The Paithani weaves of Maharashtra
Zari thread is used for the warp & the coloured threads for the weft are interlocked, the result is similar to tapestry weave. Complicated patterns of birds such as swans, peacocks, parrots, floral designs are intricately & delicately woven.
Chanderi weaves of Madhya Pradesh
In this technique silk thread is used for warp and fine cotton thread for the weft, with a richly laid out zari border and pallav. Checks & floral patterns are also laid all over the body.
Maheshwar sarees of Madhya Pradesh
Similar to Chanderi style, the saree is either pure cottons or silk / cotton mix, with check patterns being the specialty.
Gadwal, Vanaparti, Nander, Venkatagiri sarees of Andhra Pradesh
Gadwal and Vanaparti are woven as thick cotton, checks being the popular pattern with silk and zari border and pallav. The Nander sarees are very finely woven cotton sarees with rich border and pallav with gold and silver threads. The Venkatagiri sarees are very finely woven cottons with motifs from nature such as animals, birds, flowers woven half with gold thread and half with cotton thread.
Ikat weaves of Andhra Pradesh
Pochampalli sarees are woven with the ikat patterns, where the yarn is pre dyed based on pattern before weaving.
Kancheepuram, Salem, Coimbatore, Pudukottai, Madurai & Shankeranarkoil are famous for cotton weaves with motifs & checks laid on the body . The border & pallav are worked with thread or zari weaves.
Karakal sarees from Kerala
These are plain unbleached woven cottons with zari border & pallav.